Why I love Liberia

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I was driving back from church today and saw a slogan on a taxi that gave one reason to question the personal history of the cabbie.

"Man suffer woman enjoy"

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I was driving through some heavy traffic. It was a bit ridiculous; it took me 1.5 hours to travel 1.5kms. In Liberia (as in most parts of the world) there are drivers who try to create additional lanes and cut back in. There are few things that make my blood pressure rise - this is one of them. I was sitting there waiting when a stream of cars drove in the lane of oncoming traffic in an attempt to cut ahead. All of the drivers ahead of me (with myself included) made it our common goal to not allow such ignoramus-like behaviour. Our community of concerned citizens held the tide of do-no-gooders at bay.

I looked over at the SUV beside me. The driver was yelling something at me and motioning that I should let him in. It was time to converse; I rolled down my window. He said: "My man, I beg you. Let me in!" To which I adamantly replied: "No my man! I cannot." He retorted with astonishment: "Why is that? Is it because I am black?!" Inside I laughed at this ridiculous outburst, but I kept it together as I told him: "No my man...it because you drivin' like stupid man!!" I then laughed and he laughed as well. As we leap-frogged beside each other we both laughed at this strange encounter.

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Same traffic issue. Take 2. I was coming up to ELWA junction close to where I live. I couldn't take the shortcut home, so i was forced to sit in traffic. Once again, the four lanes formed. I sat there listening to some tunes and watching the little pekings (boys) running from car to car selling 5LD cold water, biscuits, Lebanese bread and cheap chocolate. One boy busted out in some dance moves. I rolled down the window: "Hey my man...where you learn to dance like dat?" He smiled shyly as I asked him to do it again.

Another peking passed by and I rolled down my window. He became excited as he thought he had a sale secured with "da white man." Instead I asked him to do what no person has ever done before. I asked him to go over to the car beside me and ask him why is he is "behaving so and passing in dat lane." I held out 5LD and his face lit up once again. He repeated my instructions and I nodded my approval. He carried out my request all the while pointing to my car and interrogating the people that cause these traffic nightmares. He ran back to the car. I asked him how it went. He excitedly told me that "dat man behavin so cause it can make him to reach soon." I nodded. I asked him if he could "help me out small." He was in. I held out some USD and asked him to ask five cars the same question. His eyes bulged at the prize money. He snatched it and set about the task. Another kid came up to me and said: "now where my own?"

Some people reading this may think that i am a bit crazy. In no way was I trying to exploit this child or make a fool of him. The children that sell on the streets are pretty brave little guys that can get in people's faces and they don't mind it. Besides the money I gave him was definitely worth his time.

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Yesterday I had one of the best experiences since I came to Liberia on June 30, 2005. I was just near my office buying some scratchcards for my phone when I heard some music that sounded live and not too far away. I asked the peking selling where it was coming from. He told me that there were people practising. After the transaction i wandered into the neighbourhood. There was a flow of beats, voices and rhythms emanating from a house painted forest green. I was unwilling drawn.

There was a full band inside jamming. They were singing a reggae song that was causing a small crowd to gather round their session. The drummer was sporting a black dew rag with full shades and a tiny goatie clinging to his protruding chin. He was all about rhythm and showing his cool. There was a brass section complete with a saxophone, trumpet and trombone. They would sway to the beat in true Marley and the Wailers fashion. The guitarist with his left hand guitar,the bassist, along with the man on keys were strong support for the lead singer. In the middle of the song the dreaded lead singer would go on one of his rants, which is so definitive of reggae music and what makes it a powerful medium of persuasion.

He ranted: "Behind every man is a strong woman. And jah man...behind every strong nation is a powerful woman...jah jah...dat's right man. Can't you see it now...jah maaaan."

The two girls on BGVs would back him up with their soothing sounds flowing rich with sentiment. To my surprise the band manager came up and took the mic to do a little shaggy impression. It made all of the bystanders hoot and holler with delight. It was the audience that gave this moment a special flare.

When the bassist was groovin to the syncopated rhythms the youth beside me would make funny comments:

"Dat man...he can play-o."

"Dat man...you see it - his fingers! Dey not movin-jah! (click of the tongue). Dat witchcraft - you hearin it...but my man - his fingers dey not movin."

When the saxaphone player finished an incredible solo one of the guys exclaimed: "Dat something. I say my people...what! Damn it! Dat man frisky-o!"

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There are so many reasons why I have made this place home for the past 2 1/2 years. What makes the place where you live unique? What are those experiences that can seem ordinary, but when you look at it twice it makes you laugh or pause with wonder.

Cheers on this spinning globe,
Cel

Comments

Anonymous said…
Maybe I should've toasted to many happy moons in Liberia - thanks for these stories - brings Monrovia close - Anna
Anonymous said…
Maybe I should've toasted to many happy moons in Liberia - thanks for these stories - brings Monrovia close - Anna
Yes Anna. But thanks for toasting to me anyway!

i will keep the stories coming...mk
Anonymous said…
I envy you. I wish I could move back to Liberia now, but I have four years to go before I retire. Hopefully one day soon.
Dear Anonymous,

I hope you get to return someday soon. It's a beautiful place! And the roads are improving small small.

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