Here is another Iranian moment that brings a smile to my face. I hope it does the same for you.
The day began like any other in
Esfahan. I awoke to the sounds of my roommates at the hostel talking
about the beautiful Iranian women and the antics they planned for their day. I had other things on my mind and decided to explore this city that French poet Renier described as "half the world." I snaked my way through the streets and made it to Imam Square. I stood back in amazement.
The scale of the square is immense, but it is not the size that causes one to pause in wonder. Along the edge of the square are some of the greatest treasures of Persian culture. I explored some of the mosques with a friend I had met in Tehran. Below are some photos of these moments.
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| Bagher Esfandiari. He opened his home to me in Esfahan. |
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| Imam Mosque. Stunning structure took 25 years to complete. Year of completion was 1629 |
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| Outside the mosque I was as intrigued with this little boy as he was with me. Note the mother doting on her son. |
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| Sister happy. Brother still suspicious. |
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| Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque completed during the reign of Shah Abbas I. |
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| A worshiper inside the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque |
After exploring the colourful mosques and palaces I decided it was time to visit the oldest mosque in Esfahan, the Jameh Mosque. Legend has it that the first religious activities to take place on this site date back to the Sassanid Zoroastrians (224-651AD) and continued on through the Islamic conquest. There are sections of the mosque still standing today that date back to the 11th century. This was a holy place and I was looking forward to praying at this mosque.
I was feeling a bit pressed and wanted to get to the mosque before the light faded. On one of the streets I was traveling down sat an older gentleman on a broken down wooden chair. I smiled politely and let out a "salaam." He stood up and shook my hand, then motioned me to follow him down the alley he was seated beside. There is one rule in Iran: when someone invites you to go somewhere you take them up on the offer.
I gladly accepted and the old man led me down the alley and around the corner. Seated on a stool was what may have been his nephew. There were bags of apples lying in a pile and the old man sweeps his hand across and goes on in Farsi about his apples. He showed me the different varieties and then put them in my hands - more and more apples. Big smiles all around. I had to take a photo of this man and his helper.
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| He was surprised that I wanted to take a picture of him |
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| So he grabbed me and gave the camera to his worker. He squeezed me around the neck and we shared a good laugh. |
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| How 'bout them apples? |
With two apples in my hand I continued along my way to the mosque. I sat at the entrance to the mosque and just observed the faithful as they entered to connect with the divine. The movement and colours captured my vision. I sat back and embraced the moments:
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| Entering the Friday prayer service |
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| A worshiper exits the mosque |
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| A moment |
I humbly entered the aged mosque and plunked myself down at the rear wall. The gentlemen beside me quickly engaged me in conversation as they read to me from the Koran. It was beautiful to see their devotion to their holy text and the beauty with which they shared the moment. They had kind and gentle hearts. Despite the language gap we had a connection.
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| Studying the Koran |
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| My new friends |
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| Prayer beads for the 99 names of Allah over the Koran |
As I was walking away from the Jameh mosque I bumped into those two men of Iran. I was quite impressed by their coifs and asked to snap their pic. I salute you lads!
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| The men of Esfahan |
Later that evening I smoked the Nargileh (hookah, hubbly bubbly) with some friends and then sauntered off to spy on the lovers who find beautifully lit alcoves on Esfahan's famous bridges.
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| Lovers finding privacy in one of the alcoves of the Si-O-Seh Bridge | | | | | |
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| A great way to finish off the evening in Esfahan |
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